With the winter months comes the cold. Here are some “winterizing” tips and procedures to help protect your carpet cleaning equipment from freeze damage.
Tip 1: Always pay attention to your daily local weather forecast.
Not winterizing your equipment just because of one forgetful night of sub-zero temperatures can cost you hundreds of dollars in freeze damage repairs and downtime.
Tip 2: Keeping your water heater’s pilot light on doesn’t always produce enough heat to protect against freezing.
By itself, keeping the pilot light on with a window ajar to reduce moisture buildup will not protect your water heater or other equipment from freezing.
Tip 3: Antifreeze or windshield washer fluid doesn’t always work.
Running antifreeze or windshield washer fluid through your entire system every night and then having to run it again every morning before your first job can be costly and time consuming. Also, when the temperature drops into the 20s or 50s, you can’t always count on either to always protect your gear from freezing.
THEN WHAT DO YOU DO?
1 – Park inside.
Of course, the easiest and safest way to protect against freezing is to park your van, truck or trailer in a heated garage or building.
2 – Electric heaters.
It’s easier in a house than in an apartment and as long as the power stays on, an electric heater can work just fine. For the most part, depending on the size of the heater, it won’t keep your truck warm, but it will keep it above freezing. Placement is the key for an electric heater. Do not place it in the cab of the vehicle, the rear of the vehicle, or on top of the fresh or recovery water tank or system, because as we know, heat rises and will only be projected to a certain extent from the electric heater. The best location for your electric heater is on the floor and in front or slightly to the side of your system console. For heat exchange systems, try directing the heat flow to the system console heat exchangers and chemical metering. For propane and kerosene systems, angle the heat flow between and to the water heater and system console.
3 – Propane heaters.
If it’s difficult to get electricity to your system for an electric heater, or you’re worried about running out of power, you can also use propane heat. This is accomplished with a propane tank, like those used on a barbecue grill, and a heating element that connects to the top of the tank. Heating elements can be purchased in different sizes at places like Bass Pro Shops, Home Depot, etc. Just be sure to keep a sufficient amount of propane in your tank and a window ajar to reduce moisture buildup.
4 – Drain all the water.
The option of draining the water from your pump, chemical metering system, and water heater or heat exchangers is a sure way to prevent freezing, but considering the time involved, this process is best for a system that will not be in use. use for some time.
5 – Rods, hand tools and hoses.
Any closed mechanical system that contains water, such as rod valves, detail tool valves, hydraulic power valves, or hose ends, will expand and rupture if frozen. A safe way to protect your wands and hand tools is to bring them indoors at night. But, if you can’t get them inside, the other option is to connect “quick disconnects” to them, making them open to let air in and water out. For example, if you have a “male” quick disconnect on the end of the solution hose, connect a “female” quick disconnect and be sure to open the shutoff valve, if present, to allow water to flow freely. The water in the hose can still freeze, but the male quick disconnect must be secure. Repeat the same steps with the quick disconnects attached to your wand, hand tool, and power valves.
Whichever you decide is the best routine for you, the most important thing to remember is to consistently winterize your system, because it only takes one night.